How to Spend 3 Days in Chéticamp Nova Scotia

Chéticamp is a traditional fishing village on Cape Breton Island. The village was settled by Acadians in 1785, quickly becoming one of the main hubs for fishing along the Nova Scotia coastline.

Although fishing has always played a key role in Chéticamp’s local economy, tourism became increasingly important with the creation of Cape Breton Highlands National Park in 1936.  Today, the village is a popular stop along the famous Cabot Trail, and it’s recognized as a worldwide leader in preserving Acadian culture, and it’s a pop. 

There’s plenty to see while spending 3 days in Chéticamp, as well as along the Cabot Trail and in the nearby Cape Breton Highlands National Park. You can enjoy delicious seafood at The Seafood Stop, soak up the sun at Chéticamp Island Beach, or learn about the tradition of rug hooking at Museum of the Hooked Rug and Home Life.

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view of Cheticamp village from the Cheticamp Island on a sunny day
Chéticamp, Nova Scotia

What is the Cabot Trail? 

The Cabot Trail is a world-famous highway that makes a big loop of Cape Breton Island. The 298 kilometers (168 miles) of winding highway goes along the coast of the island, weaving through Cape Breton Highlands National Park.

While it’s possible to drive the whole Cabot Trail in a day, I wouldn’t recommend it. Instead, take several days (at least 2 full days) to slowly drive the loop. This way, you’re able to make lots of stops for breathtaking views, delicious meals, scenic hikes, and more. 

Chéticamp is a popular stop along the Cabot Trail. It’s worth making Chéticamp your home base while exploring the region, because it’s convenient to some of the most iconic stops and activities along the trail.

From Chéticamp, you can easily access the Acadian Trail and other beautiful hikes, and the most scenic stretch of Cabot Trail highway (which is between Petit-Etang and French Mountain).

views of a road wrapping around cape breton's coast - driving the cabot trail is a must while spending 3 days in Chéticamp
Views on the Cabot Trail.

How to Get to Chéticamp, Nova Scotia

The best way to experience the Cabot Trail is by car. Since Chéticamp Nova Scotia is along the Cabot Trail, it goes without saying that you’ll need a car to reach this village.

While it’s possible to use a combination of public bus and taxi to reach Chéticamp, I wouldn’t recommend doing that because then once you arrive in Chéticamp it’ll be a challenge to get around. 

If you are flying into Nova Scotia, you have the option to fly into J.A. Douglas McCurdy Sydney Airport, or into Halifax Stanfield International Airport. Sydney’s airport is closer, but Halifax’s airport is larger with more convenient connections. If you fly into Halifax, you can spend a weekend in Halifax before heading to Cape Breton.

How to Drive From Halifax to Chéticamp

The drive from Halifax to Chéticamp takes about 4 hours and 45 minutes. To drive from Halifax to Chéticamp, take NS-102 N to NS-104 W, merge onto NS-105 N, then follow NS-10 N and NS-6 N directly to Chéticamp.

Once you arrive on Cape Breton, the drive is incredibly scenic. A good rest stop along the way is in Whycocomagh, where you can pop into the The Farmer’s Daughter Country Store for gift shopping and a meal.

How to Drive From Sydney to Chéticamp

The driving distance between Sydney to Chéticamp is 165 kilometres and takes about 2 hours. To drive from Sydney to Chéticamp, head west on the Trans-Canada Highway (Route 105) toward Baddeck, then take the Cabot Trail (Route 19) north through Margaree and continue to Chéticamp along the scenic coastal route.

view of a church and the village of cheticamp from across a waterway with views of rolling hills behind it
Chéticamp, Cape Breton

Where to Stay in Chéticamp, Nova Scotia

What not to do on Cape Breton? Don’t skip visiting Chéticamp! This village may be small, but there are plenty of great options for accommodation in the village as well as in the surrounding areas. Here are a couple options to consider:

Maison Fiset

Maison Fiset House is a small inn located in Chéticamp. The inn is a beautiful and cozy heritage home, with gorgeous views of Chéticamp and the surrounding area. The rooms are well-equipped with flat-screen TVs, minifridges, coffeemakers, and free Wi-Fi. The rooms have private balconies for lovely harbour views, and some rooms are equipped with whirlpool tubs.

the corner of a room in Maison Fiset House in Cheticamp, showing a door out to the balcony, the edge of the bed, a tv mounted on the wall, a table, and coffee station
Our room at Maison Fiset House

Cornerstone Motel

Cornerstone Motel is a 3-star motel is right on the Cabot Trail, just before the entrance into Cape Breton Highlands National Park, making it a great spot to stay if you’re planning to spend lots of time in the park. This motel is about a 7 minute drive from the centre of Chéticamp, making it convenient for enjoying the town as well.

Auberge Baywind Suites

Auberge Baywind Suites is a 4-star hotel right in Chéticamp. The hotel is located nicely enough that you can walk around town, and, it has an on-site restaurant which is super convenient!  Each individually decorated suite includes a microwave, refrigerator and minibar. Most suites also have a 2-person whirlpool tub.

a highway winding over the hilly coast of cape breton on a sunny day
A stretch of the Cabot Trail, just outside of Chéticamp, Nova Scotia

A Brief History of Acadians in Nova Scotia

Acadians are the descendants of the French who settled in Acadia during the 17th and 18th centuries. Acadia was a settled region that we know today as New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, and Prince Edward Island. Having been in Nova Scotia now for over 400 years, Acadians have developed a distinct culture and identity that is tied to the region. 

The Acadian and francophone community in Nova Scotia includes over 30,000 people who have French as a first language, according to 2011 data from Statistics Canada. In Cape Breton, French is still the dominant language on Isle Madame and in Chéticamp.

While in Chéticamp, you can swing by Les Trois Pignons to learn more about Acadian history and culture. Guides are available at this cultural centre to help with travel planning and provide tour information, maps, and local tips. You can also meet with the center’s volunteer genealogists if you would like to trace your Acadian roots.

Gypsum Mine Lake when we visited in October.
Gypsum Mine Lake when we visited in October.

Your 3 Days in Chéticamp Itinerary

Ready to spend 3 days in Chéticamp? Read on for a day-by-day breakdown of your Chéticamp itinerary.

Day 1 in Chéticamp: Stay Close to Town

On your first day in Chéticamp, you’ll stay in the village and nearby areas.

Have coffee and treats at Marguerite Boutique et Provisions in Chéticamp

We discovered Marguerite Boutique et Provisions one morning while on the hunt for coffee, and I’m glad we did! It’s a cute little boutique that’s meant to be an ode to the general stores that used to be a mainstay in all little villages.

The boutique is in a building that is over 100 years old! Inside is a coffee bar that also serves locally made baked goods. Around the shop you’ll find fine foods, eco-friendly products, souvenirs, and crafts, most of which are made by local artisans and artists.

We dropped by Marguerite’s every morning that we were in Chéticamp for their delicious coffee and a butter croissant!

Marguerite Boutique et Provisions

Walk the Gypsum Mine Trail to a beautiful lake

The Gypsum Mine Trail is a 2.6 kilometre out and back trail that brings you to Gypsum Mine Lake. The start of the trail is just a 5 minute drive from the centre of Chéticamp, making it a great hike to do while staying in town. It’s a wide trail that is easy, aside from a gentle incline as you go up a ridge that eventually brings you to the lake. 

We did the hike to Gypsum Mine Lake in October, which was a beautiful time to go because you can see gorgeous fall colours. But, if you head to the lake in the summer, you can hop in the lake for a swim! 

If you’re up for taking on a steep climb you can make your way up to the lookout point above the Gypsum Mine Lake. The climb up is worth it because you get aerial views of the lake and surrounding forest. The trail to the top starts on the left, off the main path just before the lake.

We didn’t do the climb to the lookout point because we had our family dog with us, but we heard from others that you should wear good footwear and be prepared to use the ropes to help get up to the top. Be extremely cautious if you choose to do the climb.

When walking the Gypsum Mine Trail, and any other trail in Nova Scotia, be sure to pack in and pack out, stay on designated paths, and do not approach or feed wildlife. Be sure to follow best practices for sustainable tourism.

gypsum mine lake which is near cheticamp nova scotia
Gypsum Mine Lake

Drop by Flora’s Gift Shop for a souvenir

Starting in the 1950’s as a general store, Flora’s Gift Shop has grown over many decades into what it is today. Chéticamp’s famous hooked rugs were the original attraction that drew people from all over to visit Flora’s. Now, it’s an expanded store and ice cream parlour that sells gifts, jewelry, ceramics, fabrics, glassware, clothing, and more. 

When you drop by Flora’s, you have to check out the shop’s traditional hook rugs. The shop sells tons of these rugs, ranging in size and price. The designs are all original, and very cute! 

While we were browsing, one of the ladies tending to the shop came over and offered to show us how rug hooking is done. She brought us over to a small table and gave a demonstration of the technique, which was fascinating to see. I of course picked up a small hooked rug at Flora’s which is now hanging on the wall in our Toronto apartment! 

Flora's in Cheticamp Nova Scotia
Flora’s

Learn traditional rug hooking in Chéticamp

Rug hooking is a traditional craft where rugs are made by pulling loops of yarn or fabric through a stiff woven base such as burlap, linen, or rug warp. There is a long history of rug hooking in Chéticamp Nova Scotia, where the craft has been passed down through generations. 

The small floral rugs are made by hooking through burlap, using fine wool yarn. The loops of wool are pulled through the burlap using a crochet hook that’s mounted on a handle that’s usually made of wood. It’s a slow-going process that can be very challenging if you’re hooking a complicated design. 

To learn more about this tradition, which has many roots in Chéticamp, head to the Museum of the Hooked Rug and Home Life, which is part of Les Trois Pignons.

Examples of rug hooking for sale at Floras in Cheticamp Cape Breton
Examples of rug hooking for sale at Floras.

Day 2 in Chéticamp: Enjoy Cape Breton Highlands National Park

On your second day in Chéticamp, you’ll get out into nature by walking some of the trails nearby, and in Cape Breton Highland’s National Park.

Cape Breton Highlands National Park is on the northern end of Cape Breton. The west coast entrance into the park is just 10 minutes or so from Chéticamp. The park is 951 square km (367 square miles) of ocean coast, forest, mountains, rivers, valleys, and highlands. In the park you’ll find black bears, bald eagles, moose, and other creatures. 

To enter the park, you need to buy a permit, which can be bought at the park entrance. Once you’re in the park, you can drive the Cabot Trail, and pull off in various spots for beautiful views of the ocean and the coast.

Views of the ocean and Cape Breton coast on a sunny day, one of the viewpoints in Cape Breton Highlands National Park.
One of the viewpoints in Cape Breton Highlands National Park.

Walk the Salmon Pools Trail

The Salmon Pools trail is super accessible from Chéticamp. It’s just a 10 minute drive north from town, and it’s right by the entrance into Cape Breton Highlands National Park.

The hike is a 7.8 kilometre long in and out (return) trail that takes you through beautiful forest while following the bottom of the Chéticamp river canyon. From the trail you can see the Chéticamp River, and cliffs that are almost 400 metres, towering above. 

And of course, this hike takes you to salmon pools! The first pool is around 3.6 km up the Chéticamp River. Much of the river is fast moving rapids, but at certain points there are quiet pools. You can peer into the deeper pools, where, if you’re lucky, you might spot Atlantic salmon!

View of the river from the Salmon Pools trail.
View of the river from the Salmon Pools trail.

Visit the Skyline Trail

The most popular trail in Cape Breton Highlands National Park is the Skyline Trail. The trailhead for this hike is a 20-30 minute drive from Chéticamp. It’s a 5.9-mile loop trail that’s considered a moderately challenging route. It takes an average of 2.5 hours to complete.

The Skyline Trail is one of the most famous hikes in Eastern Canada, which means that it is also one of the most packed places on Cape Breton Island. As a result, this trail is now suffering from overtourism

With so much traffic on the Skyline Trail, wildlife and the ecological integrity of the area is being impacted. The trail is often closed by Parks Canada because there are just too many people on it – And let’s be honest, crowded trails don’t make for a great experience for visitors. 

If you want to be a more responsible tourist while on Cape Breton Island, consider skipping the Skyline Trail. For beautiful views on a quieter trail, hike the Acadian Trail instead. There’s also Benjie’s Lake Trail, which is nearby the Skyline Trail trailhead, and brings you on a leisurely walk to a beautiful lake.

If you don’t want to skip the Skyline Trail, you can reduce your impact by visiting in the shoulder or off-season. The months of July, August, and September tend to be the busiest, so if you can avoid those, it will make a difference. It’s also a good idea to hike the trail in off-peak times, like early in the morning.

Another great option is to hike the Skyline Trail as a Parks Canada Guided Experience. On this guided hike, your guide will stop to describe the area’s biodiversity. And you’ll learn about the challenges facing the area’s boreal forest, as well as the effects of over-browsing by the moose population.

views of rolling hills on the coast of Cape Breton Island at sunset time
Views from the Skyline Trail

Walk to Benjie’s Lake

Benjie’s Lake Trail is a leisurely 3 kilometre in-and-out trail that brings you to a beautiful lake. The trailhead is just off the Cabot Trail, about a 30 minute drive from Chéticamp.

It’s an easy, mostly flat walk that brings you through wet barrens and evergreen forests that are typical of the Cape Breton highlands, ending at a small lake. There are boardwalks in some sections of the trail to keep you dry and protect the habitat from trampling.

This trail is known for moose! They are frequently spotted in the area so keep your eyes peeled if you do this trail. If you encounter a moose, stay a safe distance from it, at least 30 meters, and stay still.

Wait for the moose to leave and take a wider detour if necessary. Always keep a tree or another other large obstacle between you and the moose.

 wet barrens and evergreen forests that are typical of the Cape Breton highlands, surrounding a well-trodden path to Benjie's Lake
The trail to Benjie’s Lake

Head to L’abri Café, Restaurant et Bar for dinner

After a day spent out in nature you’ll be ready for a good dinner! L’abri Cafe, Restaurant et Bar is the spot to go. This place is beautifully designed and decorated, with a lot of thought put into the details. This restaurant has an outdoor seating area with spectacular views of the ocean.

If you’d like to have seafood, try the crab dip or go for a classic fish and chips done right. I had a hamburger, and it did not disappoint. We also heard their curries are good!

L’abri Cafe, Restaurant et Bar has gluten free and vegetarian options, and they handled my peanut allergy well.

a white plate with a hamburger, pile of fries, and dish of ketchup on it
My hamburger at L’abri Cafe, Restaurant et Bar

Day 3 in Chéticamp: Whale Watching and Seafood

Go on a whale watching tour

If you’re wanting to see whales in the wild, Cape Breton is the right place! There are several operators that run tours out of Chéticamp, so you can book a tour from town. Tours will typically have two options: tour by fishing boat, or by zodiac.

Going by zodiac isn’t quite as comfortable as a larger boat, but zodiacs are faster which can make for better viewings. Captain Zodiac Whale Cruise offers departures from Chéticamp, with a money-back guarantee.

Your other option is to head to Pleasant Bay or Bay of St. Lawrence to grab a whale watching tour. Both are a short drive away, and some people argue the views and experience are better when you take a tour from one of these bays versus Chéticamp.

Regardless of where you choose to do a whale watching tour from, be sure to reserve your tour in advance. Please do your best to remember the best practices around responsible wildlife tourism – make sure the tour operator you choose doesn’t chase whales or get too close to them.

A woman standing on Petit  Étang beach near Chéticamp Nova Scotia
Petit-Étang beach near Chéticamp.

Walk along Petit-Etang Beach

Petit-Étang beach is a pebble stone beach that lies just south of Cape Breton Highlands National Park. This is a beautiful beach to enjoy a walk along.

To get to Petit-Étang beach, take the Cabot Trail north (towards the national park) and turn off onto La Prairie Road. You’ll drive past La Boulangerie Aucoin (Aucoin’s Bakery – which is worth dropping into if you have time!) to the end of the road. Turn right onto a dirt road which runs alongside the beach and pull off wherever works. 

If you walk far enough down the beach, you come to a sandbar that separates the Atlantic Ocean from the mouth of the Chéticamp River, which makes for some beautiful views.

The view from Petit Étang beach, near Chéticamp.
The view on Petit Étang beach, near Chéticamp.

Visit Chéticamp Island Beach for sunset

Chéticamp Island Beach is a beautiful sandy and pebbled beach that’s about 1.5 kilometres long. This beach is located on a small island that is adjacent to Chéticamp. It’s just a 10 minute drive from the center of Chéticamp, and it’s a perfect spot to watch the sunset.

If it’s a hot summer day, you can go for a swim at this beach. Otherwise, enjoy walking along it, and be sure to turn around for views of Chéticamp village in the opposite direction of the water.

the view from Chéticamp Island Beach of the ocean, rocky and sandy beach, and houses and rolling hills in the distance
Chéticamp Island Beach

Have a lobster dinner at Seafood Stop Restaurant

A visit to Cape Breton isn’t complete unless you eat lobster. Or at least a lobster roll. We asked around town, and heard that Seafood Stop Restaurant was a good spot to get our seafood fix. On the menu you will find all the seafood classics: Lobster, crab, mussels, and more. If you or someone in your group isn’t a seafood person, don’t worry. There are plenty of non-seafood options too. 

Seafood Stop Restaurant is at 14803 Cabot Trail Rd. If you know when you’ll be going, be sure to call ahead and reserve your table in advance! I recommend doing so because when we went the restaurant was packed, even though it was low season. 

Be sure to get a photo with this fisherman as you head into Seafood Stop!
Be sure to get a photo with this fisherman as you head into Seafood Stop!

Final Thoughts: Spending 3 Days in Chéticamp

Chéticamp makes for a great home base if you’d like to spend time getting to know this region of the Cabot Trail. With 3 days in Chéticamp, you have the perfect amount of time to enjoy this Acadian town, learn some local history, get out into nature, and eat delicious seafood.

More from Pina Travels:
How to Spend a Long Weekend in Halifax
Day Trip to Peggy’s Cove from Halifax
Walk on the Ocean Floor at Burntcoat Head Park
How to Walk to Gypsum Mine Lake

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6 thoughts on “How to Spend 3 Days in Chéticamp Nova Scotia”

  1. Linda (LD Holland)

    When we were in Nova Scotia this summer we ran out of time and good weather to spend time in Cape Breton. We would have loved to have the time to visit the small towns like the fishing village of Cheticamp. We would certainly not pass on a lobster dinner. Or some time on the beach. Next visit for sure.

  2. The color of the trees against the water looks stunning. What a beautiful area! I would love to visit someday when I’m in the area, thank you for sharing!

  3. I would love to grab a latte or coffee from Marguerite Boutique et Provisions as you recommended then try out some of these beautiful hiking trails! I haven’t been to Nova Scotia in such a long time. Looks like I’ll be needing to head back to explore this area 🙂. Xx Sara

  4. This looks like a beautiful part of the province to visit, especially if you enjoy being outdoors. Hopefully I can plan a road trip around Nova Scotia in the summer

  5. I’ve never heard of this area of Nova Scotia but now I definitely want to go! I’d love driving around the whole island and stopping along the coastline.

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