I’ve been to Thunder Bay twice now, and after my most recent trip in early September, I think it’s a really great time of year to visit.
September sits in that nice transition between summer and fall. Early in the month, the weather can still be very warm, making for perfect hiking conditions. I found myself spending most of the day in a t-shirt, and then taking a sweater with me when we headed out for dinner in the evening.
As the month goes on, the fall colours start appearing across Northwestern Ontario, making it an especially nice time to explore the parks and conservation areas around the city.
Early September comes with another bonus: the Hymers Fall Fair, an annual country fair that’s been running for more than a century. We went during our trip and it was one of my favourite experiences of the weekend.
But what keeps bringing me back to Thunder Bay is how much there is to do within a relatively small area. You can spend a day hiking in Sleeping Giant Provincial Park, learn about the region’s fur trade history at Fort William Historical Park, shop at locally owned businesses downtown, and fit in some really good meals.
If you’re considering a September trip to Thunder Bay, this guide covers the places I’ve enjoyed most across my two visits, plus practical tips for planning your time there.
Thunder Bay is on the traditional territory of the Anishinaabe peoples of Fort William First Nation, signatory to the Robinson-Superior Treaty of 1850.
- Where to Stay in Thunder Bay, Ontario
- 1. Learn history at Fort William
- 2. Enjoy views of the Sleeping Giant
- 3. Visit Sleeping Giant Provincial Park
- 4. Shop Local at Goods & Co. Market
- 5. Go Walking in Cedar Falls Conservation Area
- 6. Enjoy Local Restaurants & Cafes
- 7. Visit Cascades Conservation Area
- 8. Check out Hymers Fall Fair
- Know Before You Go: Thunder Bay Basics
- Why I Think September Is a Great Time to Visit Thunder Bay
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Where to Stay in Thunder Bay, Ontario
On our September trip to Thunder Bay, we stayed at The Courthouse Hotel, a boutique hotel in the city’s north end.
The location worked really well for my partner and I because we could easily walk to restaurants and the waterfront, while still having a convenient starting point for day trips outside the city.
The building itself has a pretty interesting history. It was built in 1923 and 1924 as the Port Arthur District Courthouse and continued operating as a courthouse until the Superior Court of Justice relocated in 2014.
After a $5-million renovation, the building reopened as a hotel in 2019. The restoration later received a Lieutenant Governor’s Ontario Heritage Award for Excellence in Conservation.
I really liked that the conversion kept parts of the original courthouse rather than completely stripping away its history. The former courtroom, for example, is now an event space and still has the judge’s bench.
The rooms at The Courthouse Hotel are very spacious (I loved the 12-foot ceilings!) and have modern amenities. Our room faced Lake Superior, so we had an incredible view of the Sleeping Giant right from our window.
It was especially nice waking up in the morning and being able to see one of Thunder Bay’s most recognizable landmarks without even leaving the room.
I did read some reviews of The Courthouse Hotel that noted that some parts of the hotel feel dated, but I think this is to be expected when you’re staying in a historic building.
For me, The Courthouse Hotel is a great option if you want to stay somewhere with a bit of local history while still being close to the parts of Thunder Bay you’ll likely be visiting. When you book, I recommend booking a “Lake View” room so that you have a view of Lake Superior!
1. Learn history at Fort William
About a 15-minute drive from downtown Thunder Bay, Fort William Historical Park is a reconstructed version of Fort William, the North West Company’s inland headquarters during the fur trade. The site is set around 1815 and includes more than 50 reconstructed buildings.
Fort William played an important role in the North West Company’s fur trade network. Every summer, it hosted a large gathering where company partners, voyageurs, workers and Indigenous traders came together to exchange furs and supplies.
Indigenous peoples were central to the fur trade, providing knowledge of the land and waterways while participating in trade networks that existed long before European fur-trading companies arrived.
Today, Fort William operates as a living history site. You can walk through reconstructed workshops, warehouses and living quarters while costumed interpreters demonstrate trades and explain what daily life was like here.
The interpreters are definitely my favourite part of visiting Fort William. They portray different people who would have lived and worked in the fort, from voyageurs (the men who would’ve transported furs by canoe) to clerks and merchants.
I got such a kick out of how the interpreters stick to character when you talk with them. They speak in the present tense, as if the actual year is 1815, and you’re a visitor in the operating fort.
I had so many questions for the interpreters, like what life is like for them, how they ended up in their jobs, and the fur trade in general, and they were always able to answer. It’s incredible how knowledgeable they are!
Fort William also hosts exhibits and programming that cover Indigenous cultures and the relationships between Indigenous peoples and fur traders.
I think seeking out Indigenous tourism experiences in Ontario is an important way to learn about the province from Indigenous perspectives. That context is especially relevant at Fort William, given how closely the history of the fur trade is tied to colonialism and its lasting impacts on Indigenous communities.
I’d plan for at least two to three hours at Fort William Historical Park. Hours and programming change seasonally, so check the park’s schedule before you go.
Address: 1350 King Road, Thunder Bay, Ontario
Before visiting, check the current operating schedule and programming directly with Fort William Historical Park, since hours and experiences can vary throughout the year.
2. Enjoy views of the Sleeping Giant
One thing you’ll notice pretty quickly in Thunder Bay is the Sleeping Giant, the large rock formation across Lake Superior that resembles a person lying on their back.
You can see it from several places around the city, including from the rooms that face the water at the Courthouse Hotel! But I especially like the view from the waterfront at Prince Arthur’s Landing.
The Sleeping Giant is also known as Nanabijou, and there are Anishinaabe stories connected to the formation.
One commonly shared version tells of Nanabijou, a powerful spirit who revealed the location of a rich silver deposit to the Anishinaabe on the condition that its location remain secret.
When outsiders eventually learned of the silver, Nanabijou was turned to stone, forming the shape that can still be seen across Lake Superior today.
There are different versions of the Nanabijou story, so I think it’s important to understand it as part of a living Indigenous storytelling tradition rather than simply treating it as a local legend attached to the landscape.
For another great view, head to Wild Goose Beach, just outside Thunder Bay. From the beach, you can look across Lake Superior toward the Sleeping Giant. It’s a nice stop to work into a drive along the lakeshore, especially if you want to see Nanabijou from outside the city.
3. Visit Sleeping Giant Provincial Park
About an hour from Thunder Bay, Sleeping Giant Provincial Park covers much of the Sibley Peninsula and has more than 100 kilometres of hiking trails.
It’s one of my favourite Ontario parks, and I’d set aside at least a full day because there’s a lot to do inside the park.
There’s a big range of hiking here. For a shorter option, the Sea Lion Trail takes you along the Lake Superior shoreline to a natural rock arch.
If you’re up for something much more challenging, the Top of the Giant is a 22-kilometre round-trip hike that climbs to the top of the formation – just know that this hike is a full-day commitment.
Around Marie Louise Lake, you’ll find the park’s Visitor Centre and a public swimming beach, with canoe and SUP rentals available from the park store.
We spent a full day exploring Sleeping Giant Provincial Park on our most recent trip and still only saw a small portion of it.
We started with the Sea Lion Trail, a relatively short hike that leads to a natural rock arch along Lake Superior. Later, we went swimming in Lake Superior, which was surprisingly comfortable in early September!
We also stopped at the Silver Islet General Store, just outside the park in the small community of Silver Islet.
The store dates back to the late 1800s, when Silver Islet was a busy silver-mining community, and today it operates as a general store and tearoom. It’s worth stopping in if you’re already spending the day in this part of the Sibley Peninsula.
One of my favourite stops of the day was the Thunder Bay Lookout, a viewing platform that sits high above Lake Superior. Getting there requires driving about 9 kilometres along a gravel road, and the drive itself takes around 20 minutes.
The road has plenty of potholes and some steep inclines, so I’d recommend a high-clearance 4×4 if possible. Take it slowly, especially after rain when road conditions can be rougher.
Between hiking, swimming, Silver Islet and the lookout, we easily filled an entire day. And there was still a lot of the park we didn’t get to, so I’d definitely give Sleeping Giant a full day if you can.
Tip: You need an Ontario Parks daily vehicle permit to visit. You can reserve one online up to five days before your arrival, which I recommend doing ahead of time during busier periods.
4. Shop Local at Goods & Co. Market
If you want to do some shopping in Thunder Bay, I recommend stopping at Goods & Co. Market in the Waterfront District.
The indoor market is set inside the historic former Eaton’s building and brings a bunch of independent local businesses together under one roof. I always try to support local businesses when I travel, and Goods & Co. makes that particularly easy because there are so many Thunder Bay businesses in one place.
There are vendors selling locally made food, vintage clothing, art, home goods and other products, along with several places to eat.
Some of my favourite shops to browse were Serendipity’s Closet, which has a great curated collection of vintage clothing, and the Loud Women Collective, a queer feminist bookstore and community gathering space that features radical reads, upcycled fashion and locally made goods.
I also had a fantastic brown rice bowl from Three Sisters Burrito while we were there, which makes Goods & Co. an easy place to combine lunch with some local shopping.
Goods & Co. regularly hosts pop-ups and other community events too, so I’d check their schedule before your trip to see what’s happening while you’re in Thunder Bay.
5. Go Walking in Cedar Falls Conservation Area
For an easy nature walk outside Thunder Bay, head to Cedar Falls Conservation Area, about a 30-minute drive from downtown.
The conservation area has a short trail system that follows Cedar Creek through the forest to a series of small waterfalls and rapids.
There are only about 800 metres of trails here, so you don’t need to set aside a full day. We spent about an hour walking to the small waterfall and back, which made it easy to fit into our Thunder Bay itinerary.
The trail is generally easy, although there are some stairs and incline sections along the way.
The waterfalls are also unfenced, so take care around the rocks and edges, particularly when conditions are wet. We went on a dry day and had a really nice time dipping our feet in the river (just be careful – it can be slippery!).
If you want a shorter walk while exploring the area around Thunder Bay, I think Cedar Falls is a great option.
6. Enjoy Local Restaurants & Cafes
Thunder Bay has a great locally owned food scene, and we made a point of trying different restaurants and cafés while we were there.
For breakfast or brunch, we really enjoyed Rooster’s Bistro, a family-run restaurant in the Waterfront District that has been around since 2002. They make a fantastic omelette (I had the Greek omelette!), and the decor inside is very cute.
You’ll notice roosters everywhere, from paintings on the walls to figurines tucked around the restaurant. It gives the place a fun, cozy feel and makes the name pretty hard to forget.
For coffee, stop by St Paul Roastery, a small downtown café that roasts its coffee in-house. It’s just down the road from Rooster’s Bistro, so it’s the perfect stop to make before or after breakfast.
Later in the day, Lakehead Beer Company is worth checking out for craft beer brewed on-site. You can also order food from Subdivision, which serves Detroit-style pizza and other casual food alongside the brewery.
The Foundry is another good option for a casual meal or drinks, especially if you want to catch live music while you’re in town. We really enjoyed having nachos and craft beer on their patio one evening.
For a more old-school Thunder Bay experience, there’s Prospector Steak House. It’s a long-running local steakhouse known for its prime rib and its unlimited soup, salad and buns served with dinner entrées.
We were told that at Thanksgiving, locals line up to buy their buns, and I understand why! They were truly delicious.
These are just a handful of the places we tried. I’d definitely leave some room in your Thunder Bay itinerary for eating locally, especially around the Waterfront District where quite a few independent restaurants, cafés and breweries are within walking distance of each other.
7. Visit Cascades Conservation Area
Just a 15-minute drive from downtown Thunder Bay, Cascades Conservation Area is an easy place to fit into your itinerary when you want to spend some time outside without committing to a longer hike.
The conservation area follows the Current River, where water flows over exposed rock to form a series of cascades, rapids and pools. From the parking area, it only took us about 10 minutes to walk down to the river. There are several trails you can follow if you want to spend more time exploring the area.
The Cascades are also a popular local swimming spot, although it isn’t a designated swimming area and there are no lifeguards. Water levels and currents can change, and the exposed rock can be slippery, so use caution around the river.
I actually took a tumble myself while walking along the rocky parts, and so I recommend wearing shoes that have good grip while on this hike.
There is a $5 per vehicle day-use fee, and the conservation area is open from dawn until dusk.
8. Check out Hymers Fall Fair
If you’re visiting Thunder Bay over Labour Day weekend, check out the Hymers Fall Fair, an annual country fair that has been held in the community of Hymers since 1912.
We went during our September trip and it ended up being such a fun way to spend an afternoon.
The fair has agricultural exhibits, local vendors, live entertainment, competitions, food and plenty of activities for families. It also draws people from across the Thunder Bay area, so it felt like a very local experience.
We had a great time watching the cattle shows, admiring the crafts and foods that had won awards, and listening to live bluegrass music. The fair had a very country feel to it which was fun!
Hymers is about a 40-minute drive from Thunder Bay. The fair takes place annually over Labour Day weekend, so if your trip falls in early September, I’d definitely check the schedule and work it into your plans.
Know Before You Go: Thunder Bay Basics
Thunder Bay is in Northwestern Ontario, on the north shore of Lake Superior. And if you’re coming from Southern Ontario like I am, it’s worth remembering just how far north and west you’re actually going.
Driving from Toronto to Thunder Bay takes around 15 hours, so for both of my trips, I’ve flown.
How do you get to Thunder Bay?
Thunder Bay has its own airport, and there are direct flights from Toronto and Winnipeg. If you’re driving, the city sits along the Trans-Canada Highway, with Highway 61 connecting Thunder Bay to the U.S. border at Pigeon River.
If you’re looking for short trips from Toronto, Thunder Bay is a great option because flying makes it possible to visit for just a few days, despite the 15-hour driving distance between the two cities.
From Thunder Bay International Airport, it’s roughly a 15 to 20-minute drive into the city, so getting downtown after your flight is pretty quick.
Do you need a car in Thunder Bay?
There is public transit in Thunder Bay, along with taxis and rideshares, and you can walk around parts of the city fairly easily.
But if you want to do many of the activities in this guide, I recommend renting a car. A lot of what I love about Thunder Bay is outside the city itself.
Sleeping Giant Provincial Park is about an hour away, while places like Kakabeka Falls and Cedar Falls require you to get outside the city too.
We rented a car for both of our trips, and it gave us a lot more flexibility to spend time in the city while also heading out for hikes and day trips.
What is the weather like in Thunder Bay?
Thunder Bay has a continental climate influenced by Lake Superior. In September, Thunder Bay starts transitioning into fall.
Daytime temperatures can be quite warm on sunny days, while mornings and evenings can feel quite cool, especially around Lake Superior. I’d recommend packing layers, particularly if you’re planning to hike or spend a lot of time outside.
If you’re planning to hike, I’d pack with changing conditions in mind. Weather can also vary between the city and the parks around Lake Superior, so I always check the forecast again before heading out for the day.
How many days do you need in Thunder Bay?
I’d give yourself at least three days in Thunder Bay, especially if you want to spend time outdoors.
That gives you enough time to enjoy the city’s downtown area and dedicate a day to somewhere like Sleeping Giant Provincial Park without trying to cram everything together.
If you want to visit several provincial parks or conservation areas around Thunder Bay, I’d stay longer. There’s quite a bit spread around the region, and some of the longer hikes can easily take up most of a day.
Why I Think September Is a Great Time to Visit Thunder Bay
After two trips to Thunder Bay, I still feel like there’s a lot of the region I haven’t seen. But my September visit gave me another reason to want to come back.
Early September worked especially well for the kind of trip I enjoy. We could spend full days outside, while events like the Hymers Fall Fair gave us a chance to experience something that was very much part of local life.
If you visit later in the month, you’ll also have a better chance of seeing the fall colours around Lake Superior.
I also really appreciate how easy it is to mix time in the city with exploring the surrounding region. We could have breakfast downtown in the morning and be hiking along Lake Superior later that day.
If you’re considering Thunder Bay in September, I’d give yourself at least a few days and rent a car so you can go beyond the city. And if your trip falls over Labour Day weekend, make time for the Hymers Fall Fair!
